Sunday, April 3, 2011

A Song for Madame Sara


The Rehab Technician Training students have carried on several routines established by previous teachers.  One is opening the day with Tai Chi, which was done by their first teacher when their program started in January.  I find this to be such a nice way to start the day that I might just continue it at home!

Another routine was started by Beth and Janet, who were teaching last time I was here in February, in which they decided to supply a “booster” in the form of a snack or treat to the students whenever they had an exam.  Naturally, they wanted to make this a tradition, too!  Their motto (which they say in English) is “No booster, no exam!”  We have been working on Balance and Coordination, which would be tested with separate short exams on the same day, so they teased me and said they needed two boosters for two exams.  While they really didn’t require two treats, I still needed to think of something to do.

Last time I was here, the cook would make a cake for a special occasion if a resident asked, so I asked our cook, Edith, if she could make one for the students.  She made a lovely yellow cake with chocolate frosting.  When I got to class, I asked the students if they wanted to have the booster before or after the exams, and they decided to have it before.  But when I unveiled it, they were thunderstruck, and said, “ah, après, après!”  They wanted to savor it afterwards.  Happily, in planning for the children at the orphanage that I will visit at the end of my stay, I had brought a 5-pound bag of bite-sized chocolate candy bars.  I decided to divert some of this stash to my students, so I gave them each three of these before their tests.  They were very happy, and I am certain the chocolates will make another appearance this week.

After they had taken their tests (which they all passed handily), we cut and served the cake.  We had plates, forks, and napkins from our house, and made quite a party of it.  They said something about singing to me before we moved on to other things.  Later, they said they had decided to change their motto to (writing in English on the chalkboard) “More boosters, more exams!”  That was a very unexpected validation of my (really Edith’s) efforts!  Still, I replied verbally in French, “I thought you were going to say,” (writing on the chalkboard with an arrow from “More boosters”) “plus chansons” (more songs), to which they burst out laughing.  How fun it is to make a group laugh, even if you thought it would only be mildly funny!

At the end of the day, Frantzo and Suze wrote words on a chalkboard that I first thought was just a little “thank you for the cake” message, but Frantzo had composed the words to fit the song “I Have a Dream” by Abba (which is probably familiar to you - look it up).  My students were so happy with the cake that they wrote and sang a song for me!  Frantzo proceeded to conduct the group in a beautiful, heartfelt rendition of this song!

Nous vous disons un grand Merçi
Pour le gâteau au chocolat
Avec un coeur sincère
Nous voulons chanter
Et que ce doux moment soit pour vous
L’un des plus radieux!
            (encore)

Words on paper and the English translation do not do justice to the beauty of this song, sung with lovely voices and heartfelt spirit!

We say to you a big Thank You
For the chocolate cake
With a sincere heart
We want to sing
And may this sweet moment
Be one of the most radiant for you!

With misty eyes, I assured them that it was not only the best moment I’ve had in Haiti, but was also one of the sweetest moments of my life, to have people compose and sing a beautiful song for me!

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Rest in Peace, Oscar


Upon my return to HAS, I went to go visit my Haitian friends at the Hanger Clinic, and was once again warmly welcomed, this time by those I hadn’t seen on Saturday night.  I took my video of the Hanger Clinic to show them (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91haQlIjGzE).  The Hanger band, Prestige, was there, and they are featured in the video and provide the soundtrack.  We all gathered out back around a laptop computer screen to watch.  Everyone seemed to enjoy and appreciate it.

While we were watching, I learned that Oscar, the double amputee featured in the video who so impressed us with his heroic strength and determination, passed away just a few weeks after those images were shot, apparently from some sort of abdominal hemorrhage.  Jake had primarily worked with him while we were there, but all who witnessed his hard work and accomplishments were shocked and saddened by the news.

His wife, who must have seen the Hanger Clinic as a place where she could get help, came in the day he died, frantic and upset, seeking a large sum of money to have his body removed from their home and taken care of.  Jill, the nurse case manager at Hanger, had the difficult task of telling her that they did not have the resources for that kind of aid, and had to turn her away.  The wife, Ulna, is the same woman who was disappointed last time when all I gave her was clean sheets and toothbrushes, but later on in my stay, she came to treat me quite warmly.  I feel very badly for her, but I am glad that Oscar was able to experience walking before he died, after 8 years in a wheelchair.  It was a huge achievement.  It is really sad that he couldn’t keep on going.

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Bienvenue Madame Sara

On Monday, I had my first day as a teacher in the Rehabilitation Technician Training Program.  I was welcomed with a lovely chalk art drawing of a person climbing a tree, an elaborate bird, and lots of colorful fruits and vegetables covering the entire board. The six students were just finishing it up, writing “Bienvenue Mme. Sara.”  They call me Madame Sara, which I find very sweet.

I’m really glad I had met the students on my previous trip, had seen the classroom, and of course that I was familiar with HAS.  I had taken pictures of each of them, and took down their names from Janet, the teacher at the time.  I wanted to be able to recognize them and know their names when I returned.  I printed the pictures with their names at the bottom, along with the words “RTTP 2011.”  I showed them the pictures thinking we might put them up on the wall, but I quickly realized that they really wanted to have the prints for themselves.  I could see the pride in their faces when they looked at them, posing as they were, looking so self-assured.  I was pleased to be able to give them this inadvertent gift.

Even though I had read the material to present on the first day, I found it hard to think of enough things to say to them about the subject of balance apart from the notes I had.  Without a lot of experience, I don’t have a large well from which to draw examples and ideas.  So the first day was challenging.

Once I knew what to expect, though, I did much better.  I had a plan for the next morning, to be more engaging and demonstrative with the material, to ask more questions to draw them out, and to expand on their previous work.  Our afternoon balance lab was more structured, and I did a lot of demonstrating for them.  We got balance equipment from the hospital PT clinic, like a platform with a ball as its base, so that their balance could be challenged a bit.  They are so coordinated that they were practically doing gymnastics in the parallel bars, rather than trying to imitate a patient with balance problems!

There are certain things that seem to characterize these students. While they are unfailingly polite, often smiling, and clearly enthusiastic about becoming rehab technicians, they also don’t hide the fact that they may be tired, with glazed eyes, unstifled yawns, or heads on tables (which could not possibly have been due to my scintillating teaching!).  I don’t think this is rudeness, just reality.  One student rides his bike for an hour to get here.  It’s hot.  Didactic work is boring, yet is the system to which they are accustomed.  I therefore have a lot of motivation to find ways to be more engaging and keep them more active.  I’m not seeing much drooping now, but it is still clear when they need a break.  Another thing I noticed is how unhurried their pace is.  When we went over to the Hanger Clinic, they didn’t walk, they sauntered.  I kept turning around, wondering where they were! 

We started coordination today, and Silla, the Swiss PT who is my housemate, gave me some great ideas about using functional activities to work on improving coordination.  I was able to download some short videos to show them of coordination problems, and they seemed fascinated by these.  We also had two opportunities for real patient observation; one a stroke patient that they had seen last week, and the other a little boy just coming out of a body cast following a femur fracture, with weakness and decreased coordination in movement and gait from disuse (who will likely return to normal fairly soon).  For gaining experience, there is no substitute for the real thing!

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Back Again

I got in to Deschapelles about 4 o’clock yesterday afternoon.  There was a pink and purple sky once again during my favorite time of day.  As soon as I got out of the Land Cruiser, I noticed familiar scents, a mix of heat, dust, wood smoke, and flora that I hadn’t remarked on before, but which immediately confirmed that I’m back in Haiti.

Last time I was here, Haiti time matched Eastern time, but this time it’s an hour earlier here than on the East Coast, even though Haiti is farther East.  That’s because Haiti doesn’t do Daylight Savings Time.  Can you imagine getting everyone in Haiti to change their clocks?  It would be ridiculous, in the grand scheme of things!

I had a flight glitch due to a fire at the Miami Airport, which caused several flight cancellations.  American Airlines kindly re-booked me on a flight the next day, which would have arrived in Miami several hours after my flight to Port-au-Prince had left, so I spent a long time on the phone working that out.  Instead of flying from Portland (where I was visiting my Mom) to Dallas/Fort Worth to Miami, where I would enjoy a good night’s sleep in a hotel before flying to Port-au-Prince, I flew from Portland to LAX , then took a red-eye to JFK, then on to PAP yesterday morning.

Thanks to a little sleep aid, I slept several hours on the LAX to JFK leg, snoozed for an hour or two at JFK, plus before and after the meal on the flight to PAP (interestingly, the flights to and from Haiti seem to be the only ones on AA that offer a free meal any more), and even in the car on the drive to Deschapelles.  It's pretty remarkable for me to be so relaxed!  But I was still with it, since I only took one pill.  (I Learned my lesson about taking two, as Bill can attest – he had to guide me for several hours after we landed in Boston last fall!)

I’m in a different house this time.  It is still generous in size and traditional in décor, with tile floors, dark wood bookcases, and ceiling fans.  It has colored lights draped for ambience at night.  I’ve got my own pop-up mosquito shelter, so I’m all self-contained for sleeping.  This also serves as protection from the house cat, Dino, who would probably be all over my bedding if I let him.  (I have antihistamines just in case.)

My house this time is close to where I stayed last time, but not within the gated area which also comprises Alumni House (where I had my meals before) and the pool.  I have a nice housemate, a physical therapist named Silla, from Switzerland (alas, she’s from the German part, so we don't speak French together, although her French, perhaps her fifth language, is better than mine).  She recently retired and decided to spend 3 months working here.  We have our own cook and security at our house.  The security, de rigueur in Haiti, is mostly for privacy, so that locals don’t come up to the houses selling things or asking for kados (gifts).  Silla told me that the night guard sits on the porch outside her window, and sometimes he gets cell phone calls in the wee hours and just chatters away!  She’s very tolerant, but I’m glad I’m in the back room!

Last night I heard live music out my window, and before long they played the song from the video I made, so I knew it was the Hanger band, “Prestige.”  They were doing a performance at the residential dorm for the prosthetics patients.  Silla and I went over to listen for a bit, and I met up with Yvener and Joel from the Clinic, Nick who runs the art and music program, and Oliancy, who runs the art program for children that I visited last time.  It was fun to be recognized and welcomed!

Saturday, February 26, 2011

An Oasis of Hope

Hôpital Albert Schweitzer is a busy place.  Since family members stay with patients, it can be quite crowded.  The observation room is a ward with perhaps 20 beds squeezed into it with family gathered around, many patients with IV’s or casts or bandages, and there may be half a dozen more beds in the hallways.  People sit on wooden benches waiting for treatment or holding sick children.  Others lie down on the benches or the concrete floor to try to sleep while they wait.  In Haiti, people wait and wait and wait.

The lights are mostly kept off in the daytime, probably to save power and perhaps to make it seem cooler.  In the bit of natural light that makes its way to the hallways, people quietly tend to their loved ones.

Even with the crowding and relatively primitive conditions, the hospital smells clean.  Floors are constantly being mopped, and outside areas swept.  The operating rooms are being remodeled, and will soon be sparkling and modernized.  The library, lined with dark wood bookshelves and stone walls bearing Haitian artwork, is air-conditioned and equipped with wireless internet.

In the surgery ward, there are patients will all kinds of issues:  one young woman with burns, a man with external fixation on his leg and a foot that he might lose, a couple of new amputees.  These patients were all in the same room.  There is an isolation ward with a TB patient, and a medical ward with untold problems.  One family was praying around their loved one with chanting and holding of hands.

The cholera ward is in a separate building that, until the outbreak, housed the boutique that sells local art.  The rooms are dim but brightly painted, probably a remnant from their prior function.  There were 8 to 10 adults in one room, each on an army-style canvas cot, and a similar number of children with their mothers in another room.  The children all looked pretty good, since they were rehydrated and over the diarrhea, and had regained their appetites.  One tiny girl who looked about 6 months old but could have been twice that, was eating crackers from a big metal bowl she held in her lap.  I greeted each of them, but they couldn’t understand me and just looked at this strange apparition with wide eyes.

Back in the main hospital, I walked through the pediatric ward and saw naked little brown babies lying next to their mothers on cots, or older babies and children being nursed or fed, and others asleep with IV’s.  Many cots lined the hallway.  Nearby in the premie room there were 3 or 4 tiny, tiny babies in clear isolettes surrounded by family, some with NG tubes, one with a heat lamp, but none with telemetry.  One tiny baby weighing just 1 pound was off in a corner covered by a pink blanket.  These areas are not isolated, as the walls do not go all the way to the ceiling.  The doors to the outside are always open, and when I was looking at the premies with a nurse, a chicken wandered in!

As I walked through the halls of this third-world hospital, I wondered, why am I drawn to this place?  Why am I not horrified?  People are sick or injured, and may not have enough to eat.  Their families sleep on the floor.  They wait.  Yet people here are getting help, however slowly, and that, at least, is gratifying.


* * *

Hôpital Albert Schweitzer was founded in 1956 by Larimer Jr. and Gwen Grant Mellon, inspired by its namesake, Swiss physician, humanitarian, and theologian Albert Schweitzer.  Larry was a scion of the Mellon family of Mellon Bank, Gulf Oil, and Carnegie Mellon University.  After a year of college and a failed marriage, Larry decided he didn’t want to go into the family businesses and bought a cattle ranch in Arizona.  There he met Gwen Grant, also a divorcée.  They courted, and he spent time overseas in the OSS during World War II.  Larry and Gwen married in 1946, joined their families, and continued to live on the ranch.

One day in 1947, Larry saw an article in Life magazine1 about Albert Schweitzer, who had founded a hospital in rural Africa and went on to win the Nobel Peace Prize in 19522.  Immediately captivated by Schweitzer’s philosophy of  “reverence for life,” Mellon struck up a correspondence with him.  The two men met, talked philosophy, and eventually thought of themselves as “brothers in spirit.”3

Larry Mellon decided that he, too, wanted to help those in need by becoming a doctor and building a hospital.  With Schweitzer’s encouragement, Larry returned to college at age 37 and completed his pre-med studies at Tulane.  “Don’t try to pass the exams with flying colors,” Schweitzer advised him regarding medical school.  “Content yourself with squeaking through honorably.”Larry received his M.D. from Tulane Medical School in 1954 at the age of 44, while Gwen earned a degree as a laboratory technician and scrub nurse.

The Mellons’ criteria for building a hospital was that it be in a place of need, with available land, in a rural setting where people could support themselves.5  Following a summer in Haiti, during which he did research in tropical medicine,6 Larry Mellon realized that there was an opportunity to build a hospital there.  The Haitian government offered the Standard Fruit Company’s abandoned banana plantation in Deschapelles, 60 miles from Port-au-Prince.  The company had left following a banana blight, but there were 60 acres and 42 houses on site built in the 1900’s.  Work was begun on the hospital while Larry was still in medical school.  Gwen supervised construction and continued to be the eyes and ears of the hospital throughout her life.

Larry felt that he could change the course of illnesses by bringing in potable water, educating new mothers about newborn tetanus, and developing community health programs.  Today, Hôpital Albert Schweitzer is still involved in a broad range of activities that contribute to the health and well-being of Haitians.  There is a water committee made up of Haitians that is building hundreds of latrines. There is the HAS Haiti Timber Re-Introduction Project (HTRIP), planting Mahogany, Spanish Cedar, and fruit trees in Haiti.  A malnutrition clinic serves to nourish and educate those in need.  The Hanger Clinic for amputee prosthetic fabrication and physical therapy and the Rehabilitation Technician Training Program have been established on site.  The hospital employs mostly Haitians, contributing to the economic independence of many in the area.

HAS sees a constant stream of thinkers dedicated to improving the situation in Haiti.  Just while I was there, a professor and some doctoral students from the School of Public Health and the School of Forestry at Yale arrived to make plans for bringing a class of 20 students back during their spring break to address issues in agronomy, water, and cholera.  We had doctoral students in global health and malaria studies from Tulane, and pediatricians and internists serving at the hospital.  There was a 4-day malnutrition seminar for nurses in the hospital library.  Every morning there is a conference in the library where current cases are presented by and for the doctors and nurses, and then a presentation is made on a relevant medical topic.

A brief history of the hospital on the Friends of HAS web site states, 7 “The hospital opened as a 100-bed facility with diagnostic, clinical and surgical services. Over the years, it has expanded to include outreach and prevention programs, as well as services to strengthen household economies. From the hospital’s earliest days, the Mellons established the values and principles which led to its founding. These include Dr. Schweitzer’s philosophy of reverence for all living things; a sense of humility; respect for the dignity of the Haitian people; and a dedication to assisting those who are less fortunate improve their lives.”

Hôpital Albert Schweitzer continues to admirably follow this precept.  That is why I see it as an oasis of hope in the heart of Haiti.

5      Jenny Mellon Grant, personal communication

Friday, February 18, 2011

Animals


One of the first things I noticed about animals in Haiti is that all of the dogs are the same:  slender, medium sized, short-haired, usually light brown, sometimes with white collar or feet markings.  It occurred to me that creating different dog breeds for the pleasure of humans is a concept that has not reached this part of the world.

The dogs don’t seem to belong to anyone.  Sometimes during the night, I hear awful-sounding dog fights, and I have to remind myself that this is a normal dog’s life here.  People don’t feed them, for obvious reasons.  I was told that if a culturally insensitive visitor were to feed a dog off of a plate, the Haitian cook would destroy the plate.

There are chickens all over the place. They wander in and out of yards and buildings and cluck around anywhere they please.  Some chickens are marked with paint to indicate possession, but I don’t know how anyone keeps track of them.  However, Rose told me that someone brings a rooster to the cholera clinic and ties it by its leg to a tree root, where it crows all day. I suspect its owner doesn’t want to lose a future meal.

There are goats wandering all over, too.  Some are tiny babies and are really cute.  A lot of them have a wooden triangular frame around their necks that apparently keeps them from passing through narrow spaces, like the fences here made of tall, slender cactus.  On our first day, we saw a pig tied to a tree, and she had several babies, too.  I’ve seen a couple of small horses (young or underfed?  I don’t know) tied in different places around the campus.  One day they were tied to a tree near the pool.  One had broken free and was galloping around and around the pool area, dragging its long rope and seemingly having a blast.

Monday, February 14, 2011

A Typical Day

My day starts around 6 am, when the water comes on for an hour.  While it’s a bit early for a cool shower then, I might wash out some clothes and hang them up for the day.  Even though Maude will wash and iron our clothes within a day or two, mine dry so quickly that I prefer to do them myself so that I can wear them again right away.  One of the guys staying in Alumni House said that Maude got a stain out of a shirt that had been there for about 3 years, but Rose told me that there are only so many Haitian scrubbings that fragile clothes can endure!

Breakfast is served at 6:30 in the Alumni House next door, with the other guests staying there.  We have been served some yummy egg dishes, freshly baked white bread, and occasional dry cereal.  The peanut butter is a bit granular, a little sweet, and delicious.  There is “confiture,” a kind of jam that is so sweet that you can’t tell if it’s guava or grapefruit, even thought the label identifies it as one or the other.  There is often a bowl of watermelon and papaya, and perhaps pineapple, and coffee, powdered milk, fresh juice, and filtered water. Friday seems to be pancake day.  They are a little chewy, but really good with peanut butter and confiture.  Sometimes I eat my own instant oatmeal to cut back on the refined carbs. 

After breakfast, I have time to go to the library to get online, or back to my room to read or review, before heading to the clinic a little before 9 am.  The walk is about 5 minutes, on a typically rocky, uneven Haitian road.  If Haiti’s problems can be represented by "Mountains Beyond Mountains," their roads and paths can be described as “rocks beyond rocks.”

We see patients until about 12:30, when we return to Alumni house for lunch.  There is always the bread and peanut butter, but usually there’s something hot, as well.  My favorite lunch is rice with a brown bean sauce, which happens to be the Haitian national dish.  Some dishes are spicier than others, but most are tolerable for me.  There is usually fruit again for lunch, and sometimes a plate of iceberg lettuce and sliced tomatoes and carrots.  On a few occasions there has been a delicious dense yellow cake for dessert.

The water is on again from 12 to 1 pm, but I’m usually not at the house during that time.  In the shower is a big barrel for collecting water while it’s on to use while it’s off.  I think that the incoming water is chlorinated, but it’s not potable, so we filter the water before we drink it.  The bucket in the barrel is handy for pouring over your head to cool off, or for taking a “bucket shower”, and all you have to do to flush the toilet is to pour a gallon or two of water into the bowl, and down it goes.  Who knew?

I usually take a half-hour nap after lunch, because the heat, while not unbearable, does wear you out.  We see patients again from 2 to 4 or so, when a man on a motorcycle comes to transport the patients back over to the group home across campus for the night.

After work, my first stop is usually the swimming pool.  It feels great to jump in and cool off.  After that, it’s lovely to sit in my room where I'm finally the right temperature.

I take my cool shower in the evening before dinner, when the water is on once again between 6 and 7 pm.  The electricity goes off for a few minutes in the morning and evening as the diesel generators are switched to a fresh supply of fuel, but the brief blackout is no surprise.

At 6:30 I head to dinner with my new friends at Alumni House.  This week, Jake and I have gotten to know Dr. Bob Love and his wife Rose, a nurse, both of whom are working in the cholera ward.  There are 3 graduate students from Tulane working on global health (Adam) and mosquito/malaria studies (Mark), and Mark’s brother Eric is a premed student along for the adventure.

Last week there was a photographer and journalist from a big magazine in Switzerland doing a story on the Swiss Man of the Year, Rolf Maibach, who was honored for his many years of work at HAS.  We also had an internist, a pediatrician and his girlfriend who is a nurse, and a gastroenterologist here to teach the Haitian doctors how to do endoscopies.

There is a tennis court nearby, and very accomplished local players have matches some afternoons, complete with umpire, line judges, and cheering crowds.  It’s fun to stop by and watch, or just listen to the thwop of tennis balls and cheers of the crowd from my room.

Dinners are usually some kind of soup or stew, usually made with chicken or goat, along with potatoes and carrots in a flavorful broth.  Dismayed when I found a weird bone, I decided to minimize my meat intake, as there is plenty to eat without it.  There are mounds of mashed potatoes or piles of rice, or spaghetti with a red sauce with some carrots or peas or tomatoes and perhaps a little meat.  We’ve had a dense pizza and an equally dense quiche, both different from what we’re used to, but still quite tasty.  Overall, the food is voluminous and starchy.  It would be unseemly to gain weight in Haiti, but it would not be hard to do here at Alumni House.

After dinner, I usually check the internet back in the air conditioned library, one of the few air conditioned rooms far and wide.  Then I retire to my room to read or write before bed.

I’ve become accustomed to my little routes and routines.  I’ve learned to recognize some faces of the security staff that I see often.  I enjoy the familiarity and coziness of my bed with its net canopy, and my little fan and little lantern and my books on Haiti.

The late afternoon and early evening is my favorite time of the day.  I’ve accomplished some work, gotten hot and tired, cooled off, and rested under my canopy undulating in the breeze.  I have time to write, read, and listen to the sounds of the evening.  There are cawing birds, hooting owls, and roosters that crow at all hours.  There are goats bleating and dogs barking, romping through dried leaves the size of dinner plates outside my window.  I hear the occasional sounds of motorbikes, and voices of people passing by.  There are often drums from voodoo ceremonies in the distance, and the sounds of singing in a nearby church on the Corridor.  In a house nearby, someone practices the trombone, with scales and études and doleful melodies drifting over the gathering dusk.